BY DAYNA PAPALEO
At this particular time in culinary history, it’s become pretty much standard practice to needlessly complicate something as simple as sustenance with hip buzzwords and lofty concepts. Dan Martello bucked that trend by explaining the focus of his new restaurant Cure to me in exactly four syllables: “Cocktails and food.” But even though he’s already made an indelible mark on the Rochester dining scene as the chef and co-owner of the successful Good Luck, Martello worried his response might not cut it: “Wait; is that a bad answer?”
Nope, especially since Cure’s inspired cocktails and superlative food do all the talking. Having opened its doors earlier this month at the Public Market, the casually stylish Cure embraces Good Luck’s notion of sharing, but in a more laid-back atmosphere and with offerings that bear a distinct French influence. Charcuterie, a descriptor that encompasses Cure’s selection of pâtés, terrines, and sausages, as well as a wide variety of cured meats, is the undisputed star of the menu. The gorgeous, generous assortment platter ($16) might include thinly sliced prosciutto, bresaola, and guanciale alongside whole-grain mustard, seasonal pickled vegetables, and hunks of Flour City Bread Co.’s peerless loaves. The bread also accompanies Cure’s luscious chicken-liver mousse ($7) and a trio of piquant, vegetarian-friendly tapenades ($9).
A few entrée-type items are also available, as Martello takes advantage of the open-air market in his literal front yard via dishes like a startlingly black cavatelli served with tomato confit, fava beans, pesto, and pecorino ($16), plus a succulent citrus-and-herb-roasted half-duck atop a bed of grilled radicchio and frisée ($24). The seasonal bounty also makes its way into some of Cure co-owner Chuck Cerankosky’s craft libations, like the refreshing Chrysalis ($8), made from Karlsson’s vodka, Root liqueur, orange bitters, and fresh fruit. (Mine recently featured rhubarb’s last hurrah; look out for summer berries.) And while the humble Public Market isn’t really known for its evening action, it boasts secure, well-lit parking, and plenty of it. A future scene? Perhaps. But for now, cocktails and food.
Cure is located at 50 Public Market. It is open Wednesday-Sunday from 5 p.m. until late. Food prices range from $3 to $26. For more information, call 563-7941 or visit curebar.net.
The appropriately folksy exterior of Pittsford Farms Dairy & Bakery’s brand-new building doesn’t really prepare you for the wonders inside of it. But take a second to dig the natural wood, whimsical milk-bottle chandeliers, and vintage-jug seating at the common table before you make a beeline for… well, it honestly might be a little hard to decide. On the one hand, the store still carries an array of local products from places like Baker Street Bakery and the Ravioli Shop, as well as Pittsford Farms Dairy’s own acclaimed line of vat-pasteurized milks and creams, most notably a decadently thick chocolate milk that sends many into fits of bliss.
But to the left of the front entrance is where you’ll find Pittsford Farms Dairy’s latest temptations. The dairy has made its own ice cream for some time, and now the Corby family is offering that ice cream, in flavors like Blue Moon and Cookie Monster, scoop by yummy scoop ($3.50 for a regular size, including frozen custard and frozen ice). And those pastries no doubt catching your eye are by the renowned Jean-Claude Carvin, most recently the pastry chef at Oak Hill Country Club. Tender, flaky viennoiserie — think croissants and turnovers — share the spotlight with French favorites like napoleons and tropezienne, made from buttery brioche gilded with a Grand Marnier syrup and filled with pastry cream. Sure, traditional American baked goods are also available, but why have apple pie when you can have tarte tatin?
Pittsford Farms Dairy & Bakery is located at 44 N. Main St, Pittsford. It is open daily 7 a.m.-9 p.m. For more information, call 586-6610 or visit its Facebook page.
The Old Toad Cask Festival goes down Friday, June 22-Sunday, June 24 as part of the Rochester Real Beer Week festivities, with more than two dozen beers, like 3HB Schwarzbier and Dogfish Head Thyme Pale Ale, being dispensed the same way our forefathers served it up, via old-fashioned gravity. Tickets are $40 per session; call 232-2626 or visit theoldtoad.com for all the sudsy details.
The ol’ switcheroo
Well, the bad news for fans of Korean food is that Seoul Garden (2805 W. Henrietta Road) has closed. The good news? Another Korean restaurant under different management called Seoul House is now open in that same location. Call 424-2220 or visit the Facebook page for more information.
Irondequoit’s coolest spot might now be Indulge Ice Cream (655 Titus Ave., 286-9035), churning out its own frozen goodness on-site over by the House of Guitars.
The Oswego-based chain Zonies recently opened its first Rochester location at 376 Jefferson Road, making and delivering more than 50 different kinds of calzones every day from 4 p.m. to 4 a.m. Call 292-9664 or visit zoniesonline.com.
Chow Hound is a food and restaurant news column. Do you have a tip? Send it to firstname.lastname@example.org.